Dapper Dan – Issue 21 Cover n. 2
Who is looking at masculinity? Who is defining it? It is these conversations that drive the philosophy and fashion in Dapper Dan 21.
The new vanguard of considered design and contemplative clothing – Y/Project’s Glenn Martens, Marni’s Francesco Risso and Jil Sander’s Luke and Lucie Meier – are interviewed by our critics.
Tobias Spichtig’s ghostly forms haunt Balenciaga stores, but he prefers painting. He tells Lara Johnson-Wheeler about collaborating with Demna Gvasalia and the essence of the spooky aesthetic.
Effie Efthymiadi interviews musician Bill John Bultheel, who flirts with different genres, composing for Anne Imhof’s genre-defying performances Angst, Faust and Sex.
Hedi Slimane’s olifactory journal is interpreted by Ruby Redstone. She writes about Parade by Celine: ‘ It’s a parade in the way that memory is at its best, a trail of all these things long past and ever-present, a rush of blood to the head and down to the heart.’
‘You can’t just do something because it’s cool. You’ve got to do something excellent. Do it to the best of your ability. Do justice to the idea,’ Larry Ossei-Mensah, co-curator of the seventh Athens Biennale tells India Doyle.
Ballet dancer Alexander Ekman thinks ‘having an opinion is so easy.’ But, pausing before his next period of intense creativity, the choreographer makes time to consider this approach, conversing with Luke Forbes.
And Filep Motwary profiles fashion’s matriarch Carla Sozzani. The height of French couture in the 70s, the acceptance of Italian fashion in Paris in the 90s, the Japanese invasion, the Belgians taking over- she’s seen it all. And still, ‘Fashion is and should be a mystery,’ she says.
Does our dress define us? Our decisions or discussions? Do our memories? Delve into our pages and deliberate.