Helsinki today is a modern city with all the charms of an elegant capital, from its eminent art collections to some of the buzziest nightlife in Europe. But Finns haven’t lost sight of tradition. In winter they fire up the saunas and the restaurants throng with life. In summer they take to the outdoors, whether for a leisurely alfresco dinner under the midnight sun, an escape to a summer cabin or simply a dip in the Baltic Sea.